After driving a Land Rover for a while, you start to feel in tune with the vehicle. Gear changes are smoother, there’s less body roll in the corners and you can judge the turning circle properly. And then, something doesn’t feel quite right. Is that a sound that you’ve never heard before? A noise that doesn’t become any louder, but becomes more and more noticeable. Slightly mechanical, slightly echoey and you just can’t put your finger on it.
Experience has taught me that by the time something makes a noise on a Land Rover that it shouldn’t be, it’s already time to replace it. It is literally the vehicle telling you that something’s wrong. Of course the easiest solution is to turn the radio up, but somewhere along the line something will jump up to bite you when the noise gets a lot louder and violent, and then for some reason, the Land Rover won’t drive….
If you ask yourself a few key questions, then you may be on the way to finding out what’s crying out in pain.
Where is it coming from?
Is it from the engine? Is it left or right, front or back? If you find it hard to discern where the noise is coming from, it probably means it’s right underneath the vehicle and the sound is reflected from the road surface.
When does it make the noise?
Nine times out of ten the noise will come from a moving part and can be pinpointed to when that system is functioning. Is it noisy accelerating or decelerating? Braking or crusing? On idle, when you change gear, when you depress the clutch or turn the steering wheel? This can narrow it down to the vehicle system involved.
What motion could create that noise?
With the type of noise, you can help further identify systems involved from what its parts might be doing. Is the noise grinding like metal on metal? Is it tapping, or clunking? Or a whine or hiss?
Some recognisable noises
These are some of the noises that I have eventually deduced, which now signal a recognisable issue is at hand.
- Worn Universal Joint: a rattling metallic noise under acceleration or deceleration
- Loose shock absorber/trumpet: A clang from the front sounding like Morse code
- Worn brake pad: A grinding more apparant on cornering when more pressure is against the troublesome brake pad
- Leaky intercooler pipe: A chuffing sound from the bonnet as air escapes
- Rear lower link bush: A clunk from the back as you rapidly decelerate
- Detached A frame bracket: A low sounding clunk on uneven ground
- Bent Track rod: A grinding and vibration in the steering as it rubs the steering guard
- Broken Viscous Unit (Fan): A grinding and rattling from the engine that doesn’t go away on idling
- Worn Gearbox Roller Bearings: A whine from the central console
- Worn Clutch release bearing: The noise from the vehicle changes when you depress the clutch
This list is by no means exhaustive. Sometimes there can also be multiple sources of a noise. The A frame bracket that sheared off illuded me for a while, as the noise wasn’t very noticeble when driving, just a low clunk, and wasn’t able to be seen unless you laid right under the rear axle.
Invariably though, it pays to be in tune with noises that appear in your Land Rover, to prevent things becoming more costly in a month or so. Or just turn the radio up.
What other noises immediately signify to you that something’s gone wrong? Maybe you’d like to contribute an article or comment below.
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Thanks. That is great info. Any ideas of a clunk around the front driver side usually when turning to the right? It happened before I fitted my 110 with all new polybushes, swivel housings, brake calipers and pads, springs and shocks etc. and it continues to happen after all this work. The noise suggests it is coming from the steering? It only happens on the move, making it hard for me to diagnose at a standstill. I can’t feel any play. It always feels like the clunk is a physical seize and then release under my right foot when driving. Any advice would be great.
Hiya
It sounds like you’ve had a good go at tracking down the noise. All that’s left to suggest are the steering components. Check the Universal joint on the steering column under the bonnet, the ball joints on the power steering box drop arm and track rod, and also the bushes around the steering damper. Maybe take off the damper and check for full movement too.
Is the clunk when starting, finishing or during a turn? Is it constant or only once? If there’s a reluctance to turn then something that should be moving isn’t or getting caught somewhere.
You could jack up the front wheels and put them on axle stands and turn the steering from lock to lock. It might not have the same effect as the forces are less than when moving, but it’ll be easier to pick out noises. You can then grab the wheels fully and rock them in all directions checking the wheel bearings and the swivel bearings that allow the hub to rotate.
Will
Thanks Will,
Following your advice I took a look on Saturday. It seems to be the ball joint on the drop arm. It was only put on recently after the chassis change and has been binding enough to make a crunching sound only when turning right. I re-adjusted it following the green LR bible it and all seems ok so far!!!
Thanks for replying so quickly.
Hi,
I also have noise when turning, but it only occurs when I turn to the left. It goes away if I press the clutch and only occurs at slow speeds while accelerating. Driving in a circle is a sure way of getting it going. It’s a groaning/winding sound and comes from the left (I think!) front.
I drive a Defender 130 left hand drive, 2000 model with 72000km on the odo.
The CV-joints are nicely greased and there is no play.
Any ideas?
Regards,
Mattias
Hi Mattias
CV joints are certainly something to think about, but you say these are okay. The bearings would be my next assumption. When you turn left it would be the right hand wheel that is taking more force and could be causing the noise. Maybe check to see if the brake pads are sticking on.
I once had a damaged rear wheel bearing and when I turned right it would make the brake disc grind against the brake pads.
The fact you say that the noise occurs only during acceleration means that it could also be attributed to the Universal joints, which are very sensitive to acceleration and deceleration, and usually only make a noise in one of those cases.
I hope this helps.
Will
Hi,
Thank you! You were absolutely right! I added more grease to both cv-joints and the noise disappeared! Perhaps a temporary fix, but no more loud noises while turning left at least.
Will see about new cv-joints after Xmas.
Regards,
Mattias
Hi,
Iv fitted a 2″lift on my 110 and when i change up i get a metalic rattle sound from in front of me, could this be from the prop shaft? What is the solution if so?
Great web site btw, i also share your dream of taking my landy off road. Money is my biggest problem lol.
Thanks
Nick
Hi Nick
If the noise coincides with fitting the lift kit then it’s almost certainly related to the universal joints, unless there are bushes that are loose from fitting the new suspension bits.
Get underneath and wiggle the propshaft to see if any bits of it move independently from the rest. If so then fitting a “wide yoke propshaft” might be the answer so that it doesn’t get as stressed from the increase in angle. A 2 inch lift is at the limits of the factory designed proshaft.
Tell me about it with the money… Spanking Land Rovers are expensive!
Cheers,
Will
Hi
I have a 2001 p38 (last of the this shape) when i start it up it makes a sound like a chuffing noise coming from the drivers side (RHS) the noise gets faster as i accelerate but goes quite as i coast!! to discibe the sound better, it sounds like a cross between ticking and chuffing.
Any ideas?
Thanks
SCOTT
Hi,
I have a 2004 TD5 110 Defender and whilst under it the other day, noticed both the rear shock absorbers to have quite a bit of play in them at the bottom. They are bolted on securely and the ride feels fine however if you grab one you can move it from side to side quite easily. Just seems a bit odd as I would imagine they should have no movement in them (other than the obvious up and down travel). I’ve just had it serviced and checked over (this was before I noticed the shocks) and the dealership didn’t report anything to be wrong.
Any ideas?
Cheers
Simon
I have a ‘96 Defender 110 Tdi. Had the clutch redone in December due to the slave piston pushing through on the lever arm. Recently I noticed a squeal as I release the clutch, about half way. More predominant in reverse when one tends to ride the clutch a bit. the noise disappears when the clutch is fully released. My local mechanic says it is the spigot bearing. Having just had the clutch done i am reluctant to have everything taken apart again. How serious is this? Should they have covered it during the clutch replacement?
Scott – Chuffing could be a split air/intercooler pipe. Not sure what engine you have. I had that sound once until one day the hose exploded!
SImon – They shouldn’t really have much play. I imagine that it has worn with vibration. It shouldn’t realy be an issue as the force on the shocks is up and down rather than side to side. It might be a big clunky though?
Mervyn – Clutches are usually the sort of maintenance where it’s best to change everything involved because of the size of the job (clutch fork, release bearing, friction plate, and clutch cover). The spigot bush sounds like a culpit. It holds the end of the gearbox input shaft in the flywheel and should also usually be changed with the rest of components. The squealing is the clutch plate vibrating as it comes into contact with the flywheel due to this the bearing being worn. I guess don’t worry about it unless it causes any clutch drive problems, unless you really want it in the best condition.
Hello, I
have a defender 90 with a low pitched whine above 30 mph, as long as I am accelerating with some torque on the vehicle (uphill, etc). I cannot pinpoint the noise, but it appears to come from the R380 tunnel or perhaps the forward half of the car. With foot off the gas, no whine. With clutch pushed in, no whine. With diff in Neutral, I can run thru all the gears and no whine. The whine is there while driving with the Diff locked lo or high.All fluids are good.
I recently replaced the ATF in the R380 with royal purple synchromesh, because I had the noise and was looking for an answer. With the new fluid in the gearbox, the noise died down for about 500 miles, now it is back.
There is some vibration accelerating at lower rpm under a load, but i figure that is normal with 2″ lift. The u joints feel tight and are all lubed. Any ideas?
Thanks
Hello,
I have a 1999 130 Defender TD5 that has a vibration/noise that occurs consistently at approx. 65 km that is more noticable when the vehicle is not under direct power or braking ie. prominent while coasting down a gentle decline. The vibration or noise can be felt through the floor or pedals and be subtly heard. My mechanic can not find anything wrong. He says the prop shafts, U joints, entire drive train is good….but the problem persists. I have replaced most of the pulleys for the belt as I did have a problem with one with no benefit. Another suggestion was the vulcanized rubber in the fly wheel may be degrading- again my mechanic disagrees. It feels as I am in limbo pending a terrible disaster. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Lorne
Hi Nick,
I have an 83 Defender 110 fitted with the 24 spline front axles and a 200 TDi engine. I just got the vehicle and am sorting out things I think are wrong with it and wanted your opinion on this. When I am shifting gears, starting/stopping and when I let off the accelerator and then back on I get a “clunk” that seems to me to come from the front differential. I thought originally that it was because I had worn 10 spline axles but have since discovered they are 24 spline. Any thoughts on the culprit? Is there a pinion/ring gear adjustment that can be done? I’d like to preempt any catastrophy in the making. Thanks
Seth
Nick,
Almost forgot. How much rotational play can the front propshaft have in it. Seems to me like I can move it with my hand back and forth a good 60mm. Is this normal? What is Land rovers Limit? The vehicle has an LT77 and a LT230. Thanks again
Seth
Hi,
I have a groany rumbling sound and vibration beneath my feet when on overrun(decelerating),i have crawled under and there is some lift from the front prop’ at the output flange from the transfer box.I have fitted a new front prop with wide angle U/J’s and new U/J’s to the rear.The vehicle has a 2inch lift.Any ideas /advise thanks Phil.
Oh its a 1996 110 county.
Joe – Could be the Transfer box, but I recently had a rumbling noise that happened at most RPMs and speeds which turned out to be the hand brake cable vibrating against the seat box from under the vehicle.
Lorne – A vibration/noise that happens when you’re off the throttle is usually universal joints, because they’re not under load and rattle about.
Seth – A clunk when taking up the drive after coasting could be any part of the drive train that has gears or splines. I cured mine by changing the rear half shafts and drive members. Take off the rubber cap, jack up the wheel and turn it watching for any movement between the half shaft and the drive member. I’ve done a post about fixing this, search “Transmission clunk”. Otherwise it could be your diff, or diff pinion/transfer box output flange that has play/ Try taking bits off and checking how much play there is. My front prop can probably turn 40mm. There is always more than you think on a Land Rover!
Phil – What you describe sounds a lot like universal joints, but if you’ve just replaced them then the proshaft could be out of phase, i.e. the front and rear yokes of the propshaft not aligned properly. Rear propshaft should be out of phase by 90 degrees and the front by 30 degrees. Take off a propshaft at a time, put it in diff lock and drive around to see if the vibration stops. If it does then that was the propshaft causing the problem. The fact you have a 2 inch lift will stress the universal joints more.
Hi.
I have a 300 Tdi 90 that has seen a fair bit of action and has started to whine a bit. I put a new Diff in the rear axle as that seemed to be the source but this had absolutly no affect what so ever. The whine is a quite loud now and is happens whe the engine is under load and on over run. I read earlier that it may be the Gearbox and had a small heart attack but that is fine and hasnt deteriated at all.
Any help would be great. I had the front axle rebouilt about 2 years ago s that should be ok
Cheers Ben Benson
hi,
I have a 1987 ex mod 90 with 200tdi and lifted 2 inch.
there seems to be excessive play in the front propshaft going into the transfere box and also into the diff. UJs are fine and back prop hs no play at all. when driving if you lift off the trottle a little it makes a low pitch grinding noise and a high pitch speak every so often. if you lift off completely, its sounds like when you have a UJ gone, but there fine ?! its driving me mad !
Hope someone can help me !
Cheers !!
Hello
I’ve got an old land rover santana spanish model
And i can hear a strange sound when in gear and driving
It sounds like a rattle and then a loud metalic clunk
Would you know what that could be?
Kind regards
Alex
Hi, any ideas wold be grateful.
I recently purchased a landrover freelander put it through an mot and few things was done as it alredy had recent mot but there is a crunchy sound from the left wheel when im driving it eg; turning etc,seems to me its suspension or something along them lines,,,this noise is driving me mad, this is reason why i took it for a pre mot to investigate it recently its had n/s/f track rod end also antiroll bar n/s/f undershield repaired,, just wondering if you know to any other reason why its making this noise??? kind regards.gary
hi. i own a 110 td5. for a few weeks now i have a low grumbling sound from the rear diff. i only hear it on overrun i.e. getting off the accelerator. the lower the speed gets the lower the growling noice gets. drivetrain,wheel bearings, ujoints are ok. had the truck looked over at the dealer. oil in the diff also ok. could it be the bearings in the diff? thx for your answer. best regards thomas
Hi
Hi I have just bought ( 2 days ago )a defender 90 on a Y plate and noticed that there is a grinding noise when turning the steering ,mostly when manoeuvring at low speed, to the left.
There is also a shudder from the clutch when moving off. I have spoken to the dealer and they have told me that this is just how defenders are once they are a couple of years old. Are these noises normal or does it sound like they need attention.
Any guidance advice greatly received
Rgds
Paul
Hi Guys
I have a Range Rover 4.6 HSE with the p38 BMW moter I am getting the clonking for a short time when I start it from cold it runs just fine after 20-30 seconds it hasent done it from worm yet .Does any one have an idear exactly what it could be ? 160ks on the clock
Cheers
Mark